The jigsaw tool is a versatile handheld saw used to cut straight and curved lines in wood metal laminate and even tile. It uses a narrow blade clamped at one end that reciprocates up and down. Many jigsaws also have an orbital setting where the blade moves forward and backward as it cuts speeding through soft materials. The metal base shoe of the tool sits flat on the workpiece tilting the shoe lets you cut beveled edges. Because of this flexibility the jigsaw is ideal for intricate outlines circles and other detailed shapes.
Key Takeaways:
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Choose the right blade for your jigsaw tool: high TPI for fine work low TPI for speed.
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Always secure and support your workpiece use clamps or sacrificial rails.
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Sand edges after cutting for a smooth finish.
Jigsaw Basics
A woodworker using a Bosch jigsaw tool to make precise cuts in wood. A jigsaw sometimes called a saber saw excels at cutting curves and shapes. As you squeeze the trigger its blade moves rapidly up and down. In straight mode the blade cuts vertically switch to orbital mode and it also moves forward for faster cutting in wood and plastics. The baseplate stays square to the wood or angles for bevel cuts. Because jigsaw blades are interchangeable you can use different types of blades for each material.
Modern jigsaws come in corded and cordless versions. Cordless models offer portability while corded jigsaws provide continuous power for longer cuts. Most jigsaws use a T shank blade style no tools needed to change blades which fits securely and reduces wobble. Always read the manual: learn where the orbital switch and speed control are on your model before cutting.
Selecting the Right Blade
The blade of a jigsaw tool is the heart of every smooth cut. Make your choice based on material and cut:
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Tooth Count: As Wood Magazine notes blades with 10 to 24 TPI produce markedly smoother cuts but at a slower pace. Lower TPI cuts faster but leaves a rougher edge. For typical woodworking a 10 to 12 TPI blade balances speed and finish. For very clean cuts bump to 14 to 18 TPI. For metal or plastic sheet go higher and slow the speed.
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Blade Type: Standard wood blades cut on the upstroke. If you need a very clean top surface as in laminate or veneered plywood use a reverse tooth blade. This blade teeth face down so the cut is sanded on the up stroke eliminating tear out. For cutting flush to a wall or floor use a flush cut offset blade. Diamond grit or carbide blades can cut hard materials. Always buy blades designed for your jigsaw type and consult manufacturer charts for the right choice.
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Blade Width: Wide blades taller blade edge track straighter on long cuts narrow blades are best for tight curves. Popular Mechanics advises: Wider blades are best for long straight cuts and narrow blades are better for cutting curves. Also blades come in different materials: high carbon steel cheap but dulls fast high speed steel durable and bi metal or carbide blades for metal and tough materials.
Blade Tips: Inspect blades before each cut. A bent or dull blade will burn or wander. Replace blades at the first sign of burning chattering or resistance. And remember blades cost pennies compared to wood swap it out. Test a new blade on scrap wood to find the right speed and feed for your task. In the WOOD Magazine shop we use Bosch Clean For Wood blades for clean cuts on hardwood but any good quality brand will do.
Setup for Smooth Cutting
Before cutting prepare your jigsaw tool and workpiece to prevent problems:
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Workpiece Support: Place the board on rails or scrap blocks so the cut does not close at the bottom. For long cuts support both sides. Use clamps to hold it steady. If you cut off the end of a board prop the offcut up so it does not splinter as the blade exits.
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Zero Clearance Insert: For chip free cuts make a zero clearance insert by cutting a matching notch in a thin hardboard and attaching it to the shoe. This supports fibers right up to the blade and greatly reduces tear out. It is especially handy on plywood melamine or painted parts.
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Tool Settings: Start at a moderate speed. For softwoods and plywood you can run the jigsaw near full throttle. For hardwoods or plastics slow the speed to avoid burning. If your saw has orbit control use a higher orbital setting for big sweeping cuts but switch it off for tight curves orbit can deflect the blade sideways.
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Safety Check: Unplug or remove the battery when changing blades. Make sure the blade is tight in the clamp. Put on safety glasses and hearing protection. Double check that the power cord is out of the cut path.
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Pilot Holes: If you need to cut an interior shape first drill a hole large enough to insert the jigsaw blade then cut out your pattern.
Cutting Techniques
Follow these tips for cleaner more accurate cuts:
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Cutting Straight: Freehand straight cuts with a jigsaw tend to wander. For precision clamp a straightedge guide like a long level or plywood strip to the workpiece and run the jigsaw shoe against it. With one hand press the shoe into the guide and with the other push the saw forward steadily. Move slowly and keep the shoe flat. If needed use two parallel guides spaced slightly wider than the base so the saw rides between them.
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Curved Cuts: Mark your curve clearly. Start with the saw at low speed to enter the wood then run at full speed. Ease the blade along the curve do not force it. For very tight circles a circle cutting jig can help: attach a pivot arm to the saw and rotate around a fixed point. Otherwise cut just outside the line and refine with sandpaper.
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Flush Cuts: When cutting flush against a surface use an offset blade. Press the shoe against the adjacent surface and guide the saw gently. The blade’s design prevents the shoe from contacting the wall.
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Feed Rate: Apply steady moderate pressure. If you push too hard the blade can bend or slow causing jagged cuts. Let the saw reach full speed before contacting the wood then feed evenly. Cornell Safety notes: Do not apply excessive force when using a jigsaw. If the blade binds stop and clear it before continuing.
Preventing Tear Out
Minimizing tear out on the cut edge is key to a professional look:
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Workpiece Orientation: Because standard blades cut on the upstroke they tend to chip the top surface. If possible run the blade such that any tear out happens on the underside. For finished plywood or laminate cut with the good face down. Flip the piece and finish cut from the other side if needed.
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Reverse Blades: The best solution is a reverse tooth blade which cuts downward on the upstroke. This leaves the top surface intact. Use this when the best face of the material must stay unmarred.
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Tape or Backer: If you do not have a reverse blade apply masking tape over the cut line it holds fibers down or clamp a scrap board underneath. Both methods catch loose fibers before they chip out.
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Zero Clearance Base: As mentioned above a tight fitting base hardboard insert supports the wood immediately next to the blade which almost eliminates chip out.
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Finishing Pass: Make an initial rough cut then slow down for a final finish pass. Lowering the speed for the last few inches often prevents fiber tear out.
Finishing Edges
Close up of a black jigsaw tool resting on a workshop bench with wood shavings. After cutting sanding smooths any remaining roughness. Use a random orbit sander on flats and wide curves progressing to 180 to 220 grit as a final pass. Hand sand tight curves and corners with folded sandpaper or flexible pads. For small radii wrap sandpaper around a dowel or use overlapping fingertips under the paper to round edges evenly.
Run a piece of scrap or a fine scraper along sharp edges to deburr them. Even a quick pass with fine grit sandpaper will softly break 90° corners making the part safer to handle and ready for finish.
Before staining or painting blow or brush away all dust and wipe with a tack cloth. Trapped sawdust can cause rough spots. Ensure all parts of the project are equally smooth before finishing so the color and sheen match across flat and contoured areas.
Safety and Best Practices
When using a jigsaw tool follow these guidelines:
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Protective Gear: Wear safety glasses hearing protection and a dust mask. Don’t operate the saw barefoot or without eye protection wood chips and splinters can fly unpredictably.
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Two Handed Grip: Hold the saw firmly with both hands one on the trigger handle and one guiding the base. This doubles control and keeps your fingers clear of the blade.
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Power Cord Cordless: Keep the power cord out of the saw path. If using battery power make sure the battery is charged. Unplug or remove the battery when adjusting or replacing blades.
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Inspect Materials: Examine the wood for nails screws or dense knots before cutting. A hidden nail can catch and break the blade.
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Controlled Operation: Do not twist the saw in the cut let the blade do the work. If the blade binds release the trigger immediately and pull back. Always wait for the blade to stop before lifting the saw out of the cut.
FAQs
Q: What blade should I use for the smoothest jigsaw cuts?
Use a high tooth count blade. A 14 to 20 TPI wood blade will cut slowly but leave a very clean edge. Blades with ground teeth cut finer. For laminates or veneered plywood a reverse tooth blade will make the top surface splinter free.
Q: How do I avoid chip out when cutting plywood or laminate?
The simplest fix is a reverse tooth blade. If that unavailable cover the cut line with masking tape or press a backing board under the cut. Cutting from the underside good face down also helps. Finally using a zero clearance insert supporting wood at the blade will almost eliminate tear out.
Q: Can I cut metal with a jigsaw?
Yes. Use a fine tooth metal cutting blade and slow down the speed. Clamp the metal or secure it so it can not move. Move the saw steadily forcing the blade can cause it to bind or dull. Always wear eye protection when cutting metal!
Q: How can I make very straight cuts with a jigsaw?
Clamp a rigid guide like an aluminum straightedge or a framing square along the cut line and run the base of the jigsaw against it. Press the shoe into the guide with one hand and push the saw forward with the other. Keep the motion smooth jerking will cause the blade to wander. If you need ultimate precision score a groove first or consider using a circular saw for very long straight cuts.
Q: Is a jigsaw or a circular saw better for ripping long boards?
A circular saw is usually better for long straight rip cuts because it is stiffer and faster. A jigsaw can rip wood especially with a straight guide but it is slower and may wander over very long cuts. Use the jigsaw for versatility and curves and the circular saw for big rips whenever possible.
Conclusion
With the right setup and technique a jigsaw tool can deliver smooth professional quality cuts. Always pick the appropriate blade for your material secure the workpiece and use guides for straight cuts. Don’t forget to sand and finish your edges for a clean look. With practice you will save time and sawdust on every project. Enjoy mastering this versatile jigsaw tool and feel free to share your own tips or questions in the comments below to help fellow woodworkers. Happy woodworking!
